Nonlinear Periodized Training Program
The mission of the training plan is to provide a platform for the participants of the Training for Climbing Clubs to utilize the climbing walls and fitness equipment to have fun working out and increase their climbing performance. The training program is rigorous but flexible, utilizing the principles of periodization, and focusing on improving technique in addition to physical strength.
The purpose of light aerobic activity before climbing is to increase blood flow and core temperature before getting on the wall. Active stretching versus static stretching is important because it helps to increase the range of motion of your joints and will reduce the risk of injury. Active stretching prepares your muscles for the climbing you are about to do.
Complete each exercise for at least 30 seconds before getting on the wall. *Complete certain exercises for 15 seconds clockwise and 15 seconds counter clockwise.
*Small Arm Circles
*Hip Circles (both legs)
Quads & Hip Flexors
Hamstrings and Hip Extensors
Shoulders, Triceps, Back, Biceps
Hips & Groin
A base session is focused on low intensity and long duration climbing which provides opportunities to learn and work on climbing techniques via specific climbing drills. Climbing drills are an excellent way to increase your climbing technique including balance, footwork, efficiency and dynamic movement.
Aerobic Respiration and Capillarity
The purpose of each ARC session is to achieve a Maximum Steady State (MSS) of forearm pump. The MSS is "the highest level of intensity at which a muscle can continue to function aerobically" (Anderson 95).
Ropes / BOULDERING
Complete any of the following ARC drills including Timed Pyramids, World Cup, Bouldering Challenge, etc. These drills can also take place on ropes. If you get tired from the drills just climb for fun the remainder of the time!
A strength session is focused on completing sustained hard climbing that is close to your limit followed by a circuit that will increase your strength of climbing specific muscles such as fingers, shoulders, back, core, forearms, legs etc. This is time for your TRY HARD in bouldering. The circuit incorporates the following movements; pulling-muscle exercises (pull-ups), pushing-muscle exercises (push-ups), and core exercises. complete a hangboard workout after the climbing in this session.
bouldering - Projecting
Complete any of the following strength drills including Power Packs, Project / Push-up / Pull-up, or Limit Bouldering Problems etc. These drills can also take place on ropes as well if you prefer. If you get tired from limit climbing, add in some easy ARCing (base drills) for the remainder of the climbing time or just climb for fun!
An endurance session is focused on completing powerful and sustained climbing drills on overhanging routes. These drills involve climbing hard problems over a short period of time mixed in with short recovery rest periods. The drills will train your aerobic power and anaerobic capacity to both increase your power and strength endurance. The climbing drills will train slow-twitch muscle fibers to respond more quickly and to generate an increase in fast-twitch muscle fibers.
Ropes - Drills
Complete any of the following endurance drills including Lemons-Limes, Skipping Holds, Speed Climbing, Resting Drills, etc. If you get tired from the drills, add in some easy ARCing for the remainder of the climbing time.
A power session is focused on completing dynamic climbing drills that will increase your comfort and ability to perform dynamic climbing movements and can be applied towards techniques such as dynos. The climbing drills will train slow-twitch muscle fibers to respond more quickly and to generate an increase in fast-twitch muscle fibers.
Bouldering - drills
Complete any of the following power drills including 4x4s, Hard-Easy-Hard, One Handed Climbing, Dinosaur Arms, Lock-Off Laps etc. If you get tired from the drills, add in some easy ARCing for the remainder of the climbing time.
A power endurance session is focused on completing sustained hard climbing that is close to your limit utilizing all the strength, power, endurance and technique you have gained following the other sessions. This is time for your TRY HARD in rope climbing.
Ropes - projecting
Select from projecting on ropes or completing some drills such as Repeats or Peter Pans. If you are not feeling like working really hard, just ARC or complete some chill climbing.
A performance session is focused on projecting which is when someone works for multiple weeks on a problem that is at their climbing limit. A project can take anywhere from two weeks to a couple years. Each person will select a couple of projects to work on throughout this session. You now get to use all the technique and strength you gathered over the training program and apply it to these problems.
The clubs taking place at Stone Gardens in Seattle and Bellevue will be completing Performance when they meet once a month.
Ropes or Bouldering
Work on your projects and see how you have improved over the last 7 weeks!
There is a different circuit for each phase that will be repeated throughout the training season. Each circuit is composed of three different groups where each person will complete the group 3 time before moving on to the next group. Each circuit group generally contains an upper body exercise, lower body exercise and core exercise with a couple exceptions.
The performance circuit is based on recovery and injury prevention. Feel free to complete the circuit before or after the climbing sessions, whichever is more preferable to you!
Spring Training Schedule
Fall Training Schedule
The exercises and information contained in this Training Plan is for educational purposes only and may not be appropriate for all individuals. Never Stop Moving and their affiliates are not responsible for any injuries or health conditions that may arise as a result of this Training Plan. While Never Stop Moving will provide advice for how to do each exercise, it is solely your responsibility to warm up properly and decide if you are capable of performing the workouts without injury. Climbing and training for climbing are inherently dangerous activities, and Never Stop Moving is in no way responsible for your decision making while you are engaged in these activities. The information in this Training Plan is meant for healthy adult individuals. You should consult with your physician to make sure it is appropriate for your individual circumstances. If you have any health issues or concerns please consult with your physician prior to performing any of the workouts contained in this training plan.