Nonlinear Periodized Training Drills

Base Drills Banner

Timed Pyramids

Complete 2 to 3 timed pyramids depending on your current skill level. Rest for 5 to 10 minutes in-between sessions. 

 
  • Start with a climbing grade at least 3 levels below your maximum climbing ability. 

  • Select problems on vertical to slightly overhanging terrain. 

  • 1 timed pyramid includes climbing all the problems going up and down the triangle. 

  • If you cannot complete a climb, attempt it 3 times and then move on. 

  • No rests during each session. 

 
 

30 Min Example

20 Min Example

 

World Cup

Complete 2 to 3 world cups depending on your current skill level. Rest for 5 to 10 minutes in-between sessions. 

 
  • Start with a climbing grade at least 3 levels below your maximum climbing ability. 

  • Do not repeat problems. 

  • If you cannot complete a climb, attempt it 3 times and then move on.

  • No rests during each session.

 

20 Min Example

Problem 1 :  V0, V0 , V0 , V0, V0

Problem 2:  V1, V1 , V1 , V1, V1

Problem 3:  V2, V2, V2 , V2, V2

Problem 4:  V3, V3, V3 , V3, V3

*V4 is your maximum climbing level

30 Min Example

Problem 1 :  V0, V0 , V0 , V0, V0

Problem 2:  V1, V1 , V1 , V1, V1

Problem 3:  V2, V2, V2 , V2, V2

Problem 4:  V3, V3, V3 , V3, V3

Problem 5:  V4, V4, V4 , V4, V4

*V5 is your maximum climbing level


Bouldering Challenge

Complete 3 bouldering challenges for 25 min each. Rest for 5 to 10 minutes in-between sessions. Complete as many problems as you can of one grade per session.

 
  • Start with a climbing grade at least 3 levels below your maximum climbing ability. 

  • Select problems on vertical to slightly overhanging terrain. Do not repeat problems. 

  • If you cannot complete a climb, attempt it 3 times and then move on.

  • No rests during each session.

 

Strength Drills Banner

Power Packs

Complete 3 to 5 sessions. Rest for 5 to 10 minutes in-between sessions. 

 
  • 3 Climbs

  • 25 Push-ups

  • Pull-ups (60 sec)

  • Core (50 reps or 90 sec)

Choose climbs that are 1 grade below your maximum climbing level. Choose overhanging routes if possible. If you cannot complete 25 proper push-ups, perform the rest on your knees. Form is more important than quantity.

 

Project / Pushup / Pull-up

Select a project that contains aspects that are your weaknesses (ex. slopers, pinchers, overhangs etc..)

15 Min: Project Work

5 Min: 25 push-ups / 10 pull-ups

Complete 3 - 6 rounds. Rest 5 to 10 minutes in-between.


Limit Bouldering Problems

Work on 3 different boulder problems that are at your limit for this time. Work with a friend to figure out the sequence.  If you get tired from limit climbing, add in some easy ARCing (base drills) for the remainder of the climbing time or just climb for fun!

Nonlinear Periodized Banners (2).png

Skipping Holds

Complete each climbing problem by skipping every other hand hold. Use your legs instead of your arms to propel yourself to the next hold.

Complete 3 to 5 sessions. Rest about 5 minutes between sessions.


Lemon - Limes

Climb the first move, then down climb to the bottom. Climb the first two moves, then down climb to the bottom. Complete this until you have made it to the top of the climb! Complete 3-5 times.

  • 3 Lemons - Limes

  • 5 Windshield Wipers

  • 10 Weighted Sumo Squats


Speed Climbing

Climb a route and time yourself to determine how long it takes you to get there. Do whatever you have to to reduce your time. Skip holds, use your legs etc. Time yourself on the same route 3 times to see if you can narrow down your time.

Complete 3 to 5 sessions. Rest about 5 minutes between sessions.


Resting Position Drills

Drill 1:  Rest 3 -5 times for each climb. Try to find a good resting position on the wall. 

Drill 2:  Select a climb and have your belay partner call out “REST” every 5 to 10 seconds you are climbing. Once they call out “REST”, immediately find a good position to shake our each arm. Hold your rest position for 10 seconds before continuing the climb. Repeat this process until you reach the top.


Power Drills Banner

Lock-Off Laps

Select a climb a few grades below your max. As you climb the route, lock off every move, hovering the reaching hand just below the next hold for 3 seconds. Feel free to down climb completing the same exercise.

Complete 3 to 5 sessions. Rest about 5 minutes between sessions.


Hard - Easy - Hard

Select and complete 2 difficult climbs and 1 easy climb in a row without rest.

Choose overhanging climbs and down climb after each route.  

Complete 5 sessions of the 3 climbs. Rest 5 to 10 minutes in-between sessions.  

 

EXAMPLE 1

V4 - V2 - V4

V5 - V1 - V5

V4 - V2 -V4

V5 - V1 - V5

V3 - V0 - V3

*V5 is your maximum climbing level

EXAMPLE 2

5.9 - 5.7 - 5.9

5.10 - 5.8 - 5.10

5.9 - 5.7 - 5.9

5.10 - 5.8 - 5.10

5.8 - 5.7 - 5.8

*5.10 is your maximum climbing level

 

4 x 4 s

Select 4 different climbing problems on vertical to slightly overhanging terrain.

Complete each climb 4 times in a row without pause. You should be falling off the wall by the end of the session.

If you cannot complete a climb, attempt it 3 times and then move on.

Complete 2 sessions. Rest 5 to 10 minutes between sessions.

 

EXAMPLE 1

Problem 1: V4 X 4

Problem 2: V4 X 4

Problem 3: V4 X 4

Problem 4: V4 X 4

*V5 is your maximum climbing level

Example 2

Problem 1: V2 X 4

Problem 2: V2 X 4

Problem 3: V2 X 4

Problem 4: V2 X 4

*V3 is your maximum climbing level

 

One Arm Climbing

Select easy climbs on slab to vertical walls and practice climbing to the top of the wall with only one arm. If necessary, keep your other arm bent around your back so you can resist using it while you climb! Remember to keep body tension and your core tight.

 
 

Dinosaur Arms

Select easy climbs on slab to vertical walls and practice climbing to the top of the wall with your arms bent and hands at your chest level the entire time. This will force you to use your legs when climbing instead of pulling up with your arms.

 
 

Power Endurance Drills Banner

Projecting Ropes

Determine your Vmax or the grade that you need to project. Complete 5 problems at least 2 grades below your Vmax. Work on 3 different rope problems that are at your limit for this time. Work with a friend to figure out the sequence. If you get tired from limit ropes, add in some easy endurance climbing drills for the remainder of the climbing time and work on pure endurance.


Repeats

Pick a climb about 2 grades below your Vmax and climb the route as many times in a row as possible until failure. As an added bonus, you can even choose to down-climb the route as well! Work with a partner and see who can do the most repetitions if competition is encouraging to you!


Peter Pans

Select an overhanging climb. Let both your feet cut at least 3 times and bring them back onto the wall in a controlled and intentional manner. Work on embracing your core and maintaining body tension when completing this exercise.

Complete this drill on as many climbs as you like.

 
 

Nonlinear Periodized Banners.png

Choose 3 grips on the hangboard.

Complete each sequence 3 - 5 times

Grip 1:

3 seconds hang; rest

6 seconds hang; rest

9 seconds hang; rest

12 seconds hang; rest

Grip 2:

3 seconds hang; rest

6 seconds hang; rest

9 seconds hang; rest

12 seconds hang; rest

Grip 3:

3 seconds hang; rest

6 seconds hang; rest

9 seconds hang; rest

12 seconds hang; rest